Where's Dave and Jody?

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Michigan

For those of you non-Michiganders:

The state is divided into two peninsulas, the lower and upper. It is common to refer to the Upper Peninsula as the UP (in yooper speak “da UP”). In 1957 the UP was finally anchored to the Lower Peninsula by the five mile long Mackinaw Bridge. (dave’s grandpa remembers waiting in line for the ferry before the bridge was built. He said it was common to wait nearly 24 hours. You couldn’t get out of line without loosing your spot, so gas attendants, hot dog vendors and others would walk along the line of cars selling what they had to offer.) Today you pay the $2.50 toll and within ten minutes you are across, unless there is a high wind advisory!! I remember growing up and hearing about a car that was lifted by the wind and went over the guardrail to the lake below.

There are four great lakes that border Michigan. Lake Superior is north of the UP; Lake Huron is east of the state; Lake Michigan is west of the state; Lake Erie borders the extreme southeast portion of the state. Lake Michigan and Lake Huron meet under the Mackinaw Bridge.

It is acceptable to refer to where you are in the Lower Peninsula by using your left hand. For example, my folk’s cottage is on the tip of the thumb.

In 1837 just before Michigan became a state, its borders included the northern portion of Ohio. At statehood, Ohio took over the area near Toledo and Michigan was given the UP. It was an unpopular decision at the time because the UP was considered a wild and uninhabitable place. The mining and logging industries quickly found the UP to be a valuable piece of real estate. Today those industries are beginning to fade but tourism has taken root.

Mackinaw Bridge looking South

Sprout In Lake Michigan for First Time

Our intention was to make it to the UP by October 12th so dave could go hunting with his family. Along with the desire to be back in Michigan, the high cost of traveling in Canada was enough incentive to speed up our timeline. We rolled into Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan on October 1st. Our first stop was this border town where dave had attended Lake Superior State University.

Dave worked in a variety of places in the UP during the late 1990s, including the two National Forests in the UP (Hiawatha and Ottawa). We spent some time checking out both. Here are some of the highlights:

Hiawatha National Forest:
In 1996 dave was a campground host at Soldier Lake Campground near Sault Ste. Marie. We spent the night on an old two track that leads out of the back of the campground. The campground can get pretty crowed on peak weekends so once again we were rewarded for traveling after the season and with someone who knows his way around the back roads.

Fall Colors at Soldier Lake Campground

Ottawa National Forest:
Dave was an intern in the summer of 1997 and winter of 1998 in Watersmeet on the western end of the UP (See map). The western end of the UP is very unique for Michigan because it has “mountains” and a variety of rocky outcroppings like northern Ontario. I have not spent much time in the western end of the UP so I wanted to see as much as possible. As a result we were once again on the move, staying at different sites each day.

We spent a night at Taylor Lake. When dave was working in this area he developed a campground complete with campfire rings, picnic tables and an outhouse. Since then the Forest Service took away all those amenities but left it open for people on a budget to camp for free. We took advantage of the choice spot overlooking Taylor Lake and had a roaring fire with all the downed wood in the area.

Camp Spot on Taylor Lake

White Tailed Deer Just Outside Campground

There are waterfalls all over the UP. In Alaska or Canada there were waterfalls but most are not marked on a map or even named. In the UP almost every waterfall is named, even if it drops only a few feet. We stopped at many of them. Here are a few photos of the better ones.

Waterfalls

Dave also had the pleasure of working at a Forest Service tree nursery in Watersmeet. They grow both hardwoods and pines for reforestation projects across the region. Although they were not harvesting seedlings while we were there, the gate was open and we got to see the little trees up close.

J. W Toumey Tree Nursery

Porcupine Mountains State Park:
Porcupine Mountains State Park is on the far northwestern portion of the UP. This park is a backpackers’ haven because of the numerous trails that bisect the park through stands of old growth hardwoods and hemlock. There are also many black bears in the area. This region of the UP looks so much like Alaska it was scary. We would come around bends in the road and if we weren’t careful we thought we were back in the Kenai Peninsula.

The premier attraction of the park is Lake of the Clouds. Accessible by both road and trail this overlook puts you up high enough to see most of the park in one view. Combine that with the incredible fall color show we had and you are in for a treat.

Lake of the Clouds Overlook

Near the overlook there was a really neat interpretive sign. Since I have developed my fair share of these signs, I normally pay close attention to cool quotes or neat layouts on signs we come across. This one really caught my eye.

Cool Quote

Keweenaw Peninsula:
From the Porcupine Mountains we traveled back east in the northern portion of the UP. Just east of the park the Keweenaw Peninsula extends north into Lake Superior. The main cities up there are Houghton and Hancock. They are separated by a canal that was built to bisect the Keweenaw Peninsula for shipping purposes. Michigan Tech University is in the city of Houghton so there is a fairly young population that lives there. Hancock is home to a huge copper mine that was active back in the day. The National Park Service has taken over the buildings and is in the process of renovating them. Unfortunately compared with Kennecott in Alaska it was not nearly as impressive, but neat just the same.

Old Mine

Dave’s Cabin:
We made it back to dave’s family’s cabin a couple of days before the rest of the boys made it up there for the hunting weekend. It was a cold couple of days because we were not able to turn on the heat (due to our stupidity). When his Dad and Grandpa got there the heat situation was remedied and I took off to the Lower Peninsula to visit my college roommate Kelly. Dave and the boys had an action packed couple of days and did all right hunting.

The Cabin

The Boys

Dave and His Catch of Grouse

Pigeon River State Forest: (Middle finger knuckle on your Michigan map)
Dave and I met back up in the Lower Peninsula on the side of the highway. After a big breakfast with his Dad and Grandpa we took off for the Pigeon River State Forest. This is where I used to hang out for camping weekends while in high school. We toured the back roads, checked out all the attractions and eventually made it just south of the forest to a hand built log cabin. While I was visiting my college roommate I was introduced to one of her parents’ friends. He and one of his friends had purchased some property near the forest and built a log cabin. They had rigged up a gravity feed water system and other neat ways to have amenities. I was so impressed with his description he told us to go there and check it out. His hospitality was very generous. We realized how much so when we finally got to the cabin and saw how beautiful it was.

(Gravity Feed Water System: They had a well that pumped water only when it was turned on. The well would pump water into a 30 gallon holding tank upstairs in the cabin. Once it was full the well could be turned off. There were hoses that led from the holding tank down to the kitchen sink and bathroom. The weight of the water upstairs was enough the feed down the hoses and created enough pressure that you wouldn’t notice the difference between this system and a conventional system. This is the type of system we hope to use when we get back into the real world. Ours would have one more piece – a hand pump you could use to pump the water from the well without the need for electricity.)

Inspiration Point at Pigeon River Forest

Lost Lake

Cool Sign at Pigeon River Forest

The Cabin We Stayed At

Jody’s Family’s Cottage: (Tip of the thumb on your Michigan map)
From the log cabin we traveled along back roads down the coast of Lake Huron to my parent’s cottage. The cottage is located in a co-op of 20ish cabins that were built around the same time and all share a large tract of gorgeous beach. My parent’s have had this cottage since before I was born. My sister and I were only five weeks old the first time we came here and ten months old the first time we went swimming in Lake Huron. Dave and I got married on the beach here in 2003 and unfortunately have not been back since. We spent ten days relaxing and driving the back farm roads taking in the sites.

Cottage

Co-Op of Cottages

Dave on the Beach

Sprout Playing on Lake Huron’s Beach

There is a neat forest preserve across the street from the cottage. It was great to let the dogs explore all the new scents and to be back in the Michigan woods. Both dave and I forgot how great it smells in the woods here. I don’t know who was sniffing more the dogs or us!!

The Family in the Forest Preserve

Once we post this blog we will take the coast of Lake Huron south to dave’s parent’s house near Detroit. We have big plans when we get back into the city, including a hardcore music show in Detroit, a visit to the cider mill, lunch at one of the Red Wings restaurant and catching up with all our family and friends in the area. We will take off again after the first of November. Until then we hope to have some fun in our home city.

Maps of Canada

Alberta Map
We came from the area between Jasper and Banff and camped just outside the Park borders. This was the nice campspot with the view overlooking the river valley. From there we headed up to Edmonton and eventually due east in Saskatchewan.

Saskatchewan Map
From Edmonton we headed to Prince Albert National Park. You can see the green spot that marks the park in central Saskatchewan. From there we went southeast towards the green spot in Manitoba (Riding Mountain National Park).

Manitoba Map
In Manitoba we really started moving. The only stop was Riding Mountain National Park before we headed east into Ontario.

Ontario Map
We came into Ontario from the southeast and made our way to Thunder Bay on Lake Superior. From there we wound our way along the coast of Lake Superior and eventually made it back into the states at Sault Ste. Marie. (There is a Sault Ste. Marie Ontario and Michigan - two different cities with an internatioal border between them.)

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Across Canada We Go

When we got off the ferry in Prince Rupert, British Columbia we started making big pushes east towards the Rocky Mountains and the sun. Here are some of the notable events from this portion of our journey:

9-13-06: Peak Oil
We had a chance encounter with a fellow dog owner while eating lunch at a highway rest area. Nate is getting his PhD in Vermont studying Peak Oil. In simple terms Peak Oil revolves around the idea that worldwide oil production is decreasing while oil consumption is exponentially increasing. While the concept seems simple, the implications are far from it. How long we will be able to maintain this precarious situation is up for debate. Most experts agree within 25 years drastic changes will have needed to occur or the American way of life will no longer be attainable.

America in particular has developed a way of life that revolves around petroleum based products. Goods are either transported long distances or use oil to produce. While America is leading this trend, other developing countries are quickly falling in our shoes, creating a nonsustainable situation that will only get worse as petroleum becomes tougher to find and afford.

To understand how Peak Oil could affect your life, try answering the following questions:

  1. How far do you drive to your place of business? Is it possible to get there without a motor vehicle? Is it economical to get there if gas is $6/gallon?
  2. How is your home heated/cooled? How long could you continue to pay your heating/cooling bill if it doubled? Tripled?
  3. How far is your grocery store? Does it sell locally grown goods? (When gas prices skyrocket food that is shipped long distances may no longer be affordable.)

Tough questions. But the fact of the matter is Peak Oil is a situation we can be prepared for. By making a few basic changes to our lifestyles, we can drastically alter the worst case scenario of economic collapse. We need to be aware that our simple, everyday choices have far reaching effects. To do your part, try implementing some of the following items into your daily schedules (we are doing our best to follow these as well):

  1. Consume less. This is the easiest way to live more sustainably. Ask yourself if what you are buying is really needed. What did people do before that item was available?
  2. Next time you make a purchase find out where it was made. Try not to purchase items that were shipped long distances, especially overseas.
  3. Buy locally whenever possible, especially food. Farmers markets are good places to start. Stop shopping at the big box stores. Buy from the Mom and Pop instead.
  4. If your local grocery store is NOT carrying locally produced goods find out why. If more people start requesting them management may start carrying them.
  5. Plant a garden and grow your own food.
  6. Use compact fluorescent light bulbs. They cost a little more up front but they are far more efficient and last much longer.
  7. Be conscience of where you set your thermostat. Try opening windows if you are hot or wear more layers if you are cold.
  8. Drive less. Ride a bike or walk instead. Not only will Mother Nature thank you but your heart will too.
  9. Car pool to work.
  10. If you must have a vehicle, buy one that is the most fuel efficient. Try to limit your household to one vehicle.
  11. Use the sun to dry your clothes instead of a dryer. Don’t wash your clothes after you wear them once. Wait till they really need to be washed.
  12. If you are in an area where wind and solar are available, incorporate them into your house. There is loads of information of how to get started in the internet.
  13. Turn off your lights when they aren’t needed. (I am in awe of how many people leave lights on all day long without every stepping foot into that room. Why?)
  14. Turn off the faucet when you are brushing your teeth or shaving.
  15. Wash your dishes by hand and skip the dishwasher. Even efficient dishwashers use a lot of energy to run.
  16. Use a manual lawn mower to mow your yard. They don’t use any petroleum products!!
  17. Collect rain water to water your garden and plants.
  18. Get involved with local politics. It is possible to see sustainable progress if a core group of dedicated people are working for changes and educating others.

9-14-06: Smithers, British Columbia
We spent a couple of days camped near a couple of neat waterfalls in Smithers. The fall colors were out in their glory and while the trail got quite a bit of use, we had it to ourselves when we finally hiked it. (This is definitely one of the perks of traveling after the tourist season.) It started getting chilly at night with subfreezing temperatures but the days would warm up into the 50’s and the sun was out.

Waterfall

Dave and the Dogs Watching the Waterfall and the Fall Colors

We awoke to an interesting noise one night. It sounded as if something was chewing on the underside of the van. We could not figure out what it was even after we looked out the windows and got out with the flashlight. There was no evidence of it in the morning. Was it a squirrel? A porcupine? Sasquatch?

9-16-06: Mount Robson Provincial Park
At 12,972 feet Mount Robson is not only an impressive mountain; it is the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. (The US Rockies have numerous 14,000 feet mountains, mostly in Colorado.) It was established in 1913 and is the second oldest park in British Columbia. Together with the other parks to the east and south it comprises one of the world’s largest protected areas.

We found an old logging road with a large clearing and ample amounts of campfire wood. We split enough dry wood to last us for days. After weeks of rain and damp or wet wood it was fun to split some truly dry wood. We had a great fire and watched the stars. It was the first time on the trip that it was dark enough and clear enough for the whole sky to be filled. It looked as though you could touch Orion’s belt. As if that were not enough, when we awoke and looked out the ‘bedroom’ window Mount Robson was lit up in sunlight. Not a cloud in the sky. This was a great way to start the day.

Bedroom Window Site

Entrance to Mount Robson Provincial Park

9-17-06: Jasper and Banff National Parks
From Mount Robson we headed next door to Jasper National Park in Alberta. We soaked in the Miette Hot Spring (the hottest springs in the Canadian Rockies), took in Athabascan Falls (a 75-foot waterfall that creates one of the most powerful flows to be found anywhere in the mountain parks), and went for a walk on Athabascan Glacier. (We did this same trip in reverse in 2002 on our way to Alaska.)

Athabascan Falls
Athabascan Glacier

The National Parks were beautiful but also very expensive to visit.

$18 – Daily Entrance Fee

$19 – Camping Fee (You were only allowed to camp in designated spaces yet most of the campground were closed.)

$7 – Campfire Permit (You need to pay this fee just to have a fire, regardless if you brought your own wood.)

This equaled $44 to camp and have a fire in the National Park for one night.

It wasn’t economical for us to stay too long in the National Parks when the surrounding Provincial Parks and Reserves were free. We drove outside the park boundaries at night and found great, free, legal camping. (One night we camped in a foot of wet snow. This was a fluke occurrence that snapped many of the younger trees that still had their leaves.) We are getting spoiled with private, scenic camping spots. It will be tough when we get to places where you can hear others nearby or have to tie the dogs up.

Alberta Scenery

We are skirting the southern portion of Banff National Park to head northeast to Edmonton. We camped alone in a Forest Reserve. Here we were 10 miles away from Banff National Park where it cost $44 to camp and we were seeing just as beautiful scenery; we were paying nothing and had the place all to ourselves. Makes you wonder why more people weren’t doing the same.

River Valley Near Campspot in Forest Reserve

9-20-06: Edmonton, Alberta
From our isolated camp spot in the Canadian Rockies we rolled into Edmonton, Alberta (one of the biggest cities in Canada). We jumped right into city driving mode, with some coxing, and went to see some live DIY (Do It Yourself) music downtown. Two bands played – it was loud, fast and obnoxious but exactly what we were looking for. With ears bleeding and blood pumping we went to the nearest Wal-Mart to sleep as they allow free RV camping in their parking lots. This is one of the only good things we have to say about Wal-Mart. In a big city it is hard to find safe van camping. The parks normally close at night. There are no forest roads. And anywhere else, except for the ghetto, the police tell you to keep moving. Who would have thought that Wal-Mart would be the ray of light in this situation?

Edmonton is home to the world’s largest shopping mall. Over 800 stores, 100 eateries, three theme parks and 26 movie theatres, including an IMAX, make up over 5 acres. We decided we had to go and witness consumption at its finest hour. Let’s just say that we were not let down. The real reason to visit this monstrosity was its water park. Those of you who know my sister and me, know we can’t pass up a good water park. Although the huge wave pool and over 12 waterslides looked enticing we were unable to afford the $30/person entrance fee. I was bummed but there was more than the water park to keep our attention. In addition to the water park, the West Edmonton Mall had an NHL sized ice skating rink, a replica of Christopher Columbus’ ship the Santa Maria, a sea lion show, an aquarium and hordes of people. We didn’t stay long.

Water Park at the West Edmonton MallReplica of Christopher Columbus’ Ship the Santa Maria


While in Edmonton we saw hockey legend Wayne Gretzky. We got our photo taken with him and commented on how sore his shoulders must be from hoisting the cup all these years.

Before we jetted we took in the sights of Old Strathcona, a historic district on the eastern side of town. It had an eclectic mix of people and shops, even all the electrical boxes were painted with funny murals to liven up their appearance.

9-23-06: Saskatchewan
From Edmonton we traveled northeast toward Prince Albert National Park. Judging from the literature we read and the people we talked to in the town of Prince Albert it sounded worth the trip even with the high costs of national parks. This was a rather strange park because there is a town smack dab in the middle of the park. Waskesiu is home to many summer cabins, a golf course and other amenities Americans are used to seeing outside a National Park’s borders. Most of the community was closed down but we were able to take advantage of the campground’s showers and loaded back up with water.

Sunset at our Camping Spot in Prince Albert National Park

While driving on the park’s roads we had a VERY unusual wildlife encounter. We spotted a cougar in the middle of the road. It quickly moved away so we were unable to get a photo but we were left in awe of such a sight. We talked with the rangers about it and they told us it is extremely rare to see one in the park, especially on the road. It was larger than Sprout, had thicker legs and feet than a wolf, and had an extremely long tail.

Sunset at Our Camp Spot on a Logging Road in Saskatchewan


9-25-06: Manitoba
Manitoba
looks much like the plains of the U.S. It is very flat with numerous large farms. We visited Riding Mountain National Park. It is essentially an island of forest surrounded by farms. The park staff were working closely with the surrounding farm owners to ensure the wildlife that left the park’s borders had a safe place to go. There were signs all over about managing on an ecosystem scale approach that left the farmers with a valuable role.

Riding Mountain National Park Campsite

The fall colors were out and when it rained it moved through rather quickly giving way to partly sunny skies. We didn’t stay in the park too long but we did climb one of the lookout towers to get a better view of the surrounding area and take in the fall colors from a different angle.

Dave and the Pooches on the Lookout Tower


9-28-06: Ontario
Ontario
sits on the northern shore of Lake Superior and looks very similar to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan (on Lake Superior’s southern shores). I guess you could define the landscape as Canadian Shield (boreal forest with lots of rocky outcroppings). There was water everywhere, along with lots of little forested islands. There were numerous national and provincial parks along the lake shore and LOTS of trails to explore further off the road system.

Scenery Along Northern Lake Superior

Rocky Outcropping

First Time the Dogs Saw Lake Superior


One stunning feature of Ontario is a waterfall called the Niagara of the North. This monstrous waterfall has a place in local legends and can be heard from miles away.

Fishermen near Chippewa Falls

We were both looking forward to spending some time in northern Ontario. Yet when we finally got there the weather was getting chiller and the cost of traveling in Canada was starting to take a toll on our budget. As a result we weren’t able to devote as much time as we wanted in this area and decided to save it for another traveling period. So with Michigan on the mind we hurried along Lake Superior and started the drive back to our home state.